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Problems with Wi-Fi reception

Introduction

Problems with Wi-Fi reception can have very different causes. Wi-Fi (Wireless LAN; WLAN) is a highly complex technology with which digital data is transmitted via the medium "air" - it is a so-called "shared medium", i.e. a medium that is used by very many participants at the same time. These include the Wi-Fi networks of neighbors, Bluetooth connections, car door openers, microwaves, baby monitors, and many more. - all of these applications operate in the 2.4Ghz frequency band and adjacent/overlapping ranges. To prevent confusion, complex mechanisms are employed to ensure that all data packets are uniquely identified and encrypted, and that all Wi-Fi participants only ever transmit in an alternating rhythm and not simultaneously. Since Wi-Fi standards have gone through many iterations, revisions and improvements over time (a/b/g/n/ac/ax), connection problems and incompatibilities cannot be completely avoided. Therefore, here are some practical tips on how to solve or at least work around Wi-Fi connection problems.

Wi-Fi driver update

If the Wi-Fi module is fairly new (i.e. it has only been on the market for a short amount of time), a simple driver update can sometimes solve problems. Current Wi-Fi drivers can be downloaded directly from the manufacturer - they are equally valid for all laptops. You can also update your Bluetooth driver while you are at it.

For Intel Wireless Module:

For Intel Killer Wireless Module (formerly RIVET Networks):

Firmware update in the Wi-Fi router

"Router" is used here synonymously for Access Point (AP).

If the Wi-Fi module is of the very latest generation, but the Wi-Fi router is somewhat older, older routers may not be able to cope with the latest modules. All Wi-Fi standards are in principle downward compatible. But as always, the devil is in the details.

Every router has its own firmware, which can be updated through the router manufacturer. Many routers can update their firmware semi-automatically via the router's web interface. With some, you have to manually download the update file from the manufacturer's website beforehand. More rarely, combined devices consisting of a Wi-Fi router and DSL/cable modem can only be updated directly from the provider via remote access. The first port of call is always the manufacturer of the router or the service provider who provided the router to you.

To find the web interface of the router, proceed as follows:

  • Open command line with Win+R: cmd
  • Type "ipconfig" - Windows displays the IP address of the LAN and Wi-Fi connections.
  • Under "Default Gateway" you will find the IP address of the router
  • Enter this IP address in the address line of the browser
  • The user name and password of the router were assigned during the initial setup. You may also find the data on the type plate on the bottom of the router.

Please note: some Wi-Fi routers automatically reset themselves to factory settings after a firmware update. Therefore, you should have a LAN cable ready before any firmware update in case you no longer have Wi-Fi access after the update. If the Wi-Fi router also functions as a DSL/cable modem, you should also have the Internet access data of the Internet provider ready, for example by copying it (if possible) from the router's web interface before the update.

Disable/uninstall security/tuning software

As already explained in the FAQ category "Tips": we advise against overloading the system with countless tuning and security programs, as they can sometimes have unexpected side effects or get in each other's way. In case of Wi-Fi or Internet problems, we recommend uninstalling all security software (firewalls, virus scanners) as a test. Based on our experience, simply deactivating protective functions might not sufficient - only a full uninstall will do.

Change router settings

If Wi-Fi problems do not improve even after following the above tips, you can try to change a few settings. Sometimes it happens that Wi-Fi module and router speak the same language, but have "differences of opinion" in individual points and do not harmonize properly with each other. The web interface of a Wi-Fi router usually offers a wide range of settings that can be tried out for troubleshooting. Often these settings are hidden behind an "expert mode" or labeled "advanced".

For all setting changes on the Wi-Fi router: write down what you have changed! Especially when you change the encryption settings, you should be careful not to accidentally change the Wi-Fi password. Again, having a LAN cable on hand might be a good backup. If you accidentally lock yourself out of the Wi-Fi completely, you will definitely be able to reconnect with a LAN cable.

Should all attempts fail - i.e. should you not be able to connect to the router despite all attempts - you can always use the reset button to go back to square one. Every router has a tiny button that you can press with an unfolded paper clip for 5-10 seconds. This will reset the router to factory settings - but you might have to re-enter the connection data of the Internet provider (if the router is a combination device with DSL/cable modem).

Here are a few tips on Wi-Fi settings that can be changed in the router:

  • Disable WPS (Wi-Fi Protected Setup). This function is actually there to simplify the connection to the Wi-Fi (e.g. via "configuration at the push of a button"). In practice, however, it can also lead to problems. We therefore recommend deactivating this function and using the SSID (Wi-Fi Network Name) and shared Wi-Fi password to connect in the traditional way.
  • Switch from WPA2 to WPA. Many routers offer a hybrid mode by default, in which both WPA and WPA2 are used as encryption methods. Some (especially older) Wi-Fi modules do not cope with this. Since WPA2 offers no advantages for home users, we recommend switching to simple WPA without hybrid mode. "WEP" however is not recommended - that standard is obsolete and can be cracked too easily.
  • Switch channels. Wi-Fi standards in most countries offer 11-13 radio channels (in Japan even 14) in the 2.4Ghz frequency band. Many routers are set by default to automatically select the best Wi-Fi channel. However, this automatism might not always do the best job. It might be better to manually select a channel by yourself - if you can find one that is mostly unoccupied by other Wi-Fi networks. To find out in which corners of your house which channels are particularly busy, you can find some good Wi-Fi Scanning apps for Android smartphones.
  • Switch between Wi-Fi frequency bands 2.4GHz and 5GHz. Many Wi-Fi routers and modules can also transmit in the 5Ghz band. This capability is also known as "dual band". Some routers are set in such a way that they can transmit in both bands at the same time. This can have its advantages, but it can also lead to problems. If the connection is frequently interrupted, you can try to select either only the 2.4 GHz band or only the 5 GHz band in the router. But beware: in the exclusive 5GHz mode, the Wi-Fi can no longer be used by devices that are not 5GHz-capable. This is especially true for very old laptops and very old smartphones. To get these devices back on Wi-Fi, simply reactivate the 2.4 GHz band in the router.
  • Switch between a/b/g/n/ac/ax standards. All these different Wi-Fi standards build on top of each other and are mostly backward compatible. Most routers are set to support multiple standards simultaneously. In rare cases, however, this can also lead to problems. It can therefore be worthwhile to try out individual standards. In the previous listing, the standards are sorted by age from left to right ("ax" is the newest standard). Older standards may be associated with slight performance losses, but might possibly be more reliable. But the reverse is also possible: the network may respond better if only one of the newest standards is active (presuming that all Wi-Fi participants support it as well).

Replacing the Wi-Fi module is always a possibility

If none of the above measures help and if a software cause can be ruled out 100%, there are still two possibilities: either the Wi-Fi module and the router simply do not get along with each other or the Wi-Fi module is simply defective. In both cases, the Wi-Fi module can be removed individually and exchanged for another model via our Advanced Warranty Replacement. It won't be necessary to RMA the whole laptop for this process. Please contact our support to learn more about this process.